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Nothing in Life is Free (NILIF) - A Hands - Off Approach to Being a Good Pack Leader
by Deb McKean

Undesirable behavior can be caused by many things, including undetected illness. No behavior modification program should begin without first taking the dog to a veterinarian for a complete physical examination. While you're there, give your vet a printed copy of this page and ask if it would be an appropriate technique for you to try. The NILIF program is an accepted standard in dog training/behavior but it is not, and is not intended to be, a substitute for an in-person, professional evaluation of your dog's behavior. This technique is intended for dogs in good health and of sound mind and stable temperament.

The NILIF program is remarkable because it's effective for such a wide variety of problems. A shy, timid dog becomes more relaxed knowing that he has nothing to worry about, his owner is in charge of all things. A dog that's pushing too hard to become "top dog" learns that the position is not available and that his life is far more enjoyable without the title.

It is equally successful with dogs that fall anywhere between those two extremes. The program is not difficult to put into effect and it's not time consuming if the dog already knows a few basic obedience commands. I've never seen this technique fail to bring about a positive change in behaviour, however, the change can be more profound in some dogs than others. Most owners use this program in conjunction with other behaviour modification techniques such as coping with fear or treatment for aggression. It is a perfectly suitable technique for the dog with no major behaviour problems that just needs some fine tuning.

ATTENTION ON DEMAND
The program begins by eliminating attention on demand. When your dog comes to you and nudges your hand, saying "pet me! pet me!" ignore him. Don't tell him "no", don't push him away. Simply pretend you don't notice him. This has worked for him before, so don't be surprised if he tries harder to get your attention. When he figures out that this no longer works, he'll stop. In a pack situation, the top ranking dogs can demand attention from the lower ranking ones, not the other way around. When you give your dog attention on demand you're telling him that he has more status in the pack than you do. Timid dogs become stressed by having this power and may become clingy. They're never sure when you'll be in charge so they can't relax. What if something scary happens, like a stranger coming in the house? Who will handle that? The timid dog that is demanding of attention can be on edge a lot of the time because he has more responsibility than he can handle.

Some dogs see their ability to demand attention as confirmation that they are the "alpha", then become difficult to handle when told to "sit" or "down" or some other demand is placed on them. It is not their leadership status that stresses them out, it's the lack of consistency. They may or may not actually be alpha material, but having no one in the pack that is clearly the leader is a bigger problem than having the dog assume that role full time. Dogs are happiest when the pack order is stable. Tension is created by a constant fluctuation of pack leadership.

EXTINCTION BURSTS

Your dog already knows that he can demand your attention and he knows what works to get that to happen. As of today, it no longer works, but he doesn't know that yet. We all try harder at something we know works when it stops working. If I gave you a twenty dollar bill every time you clapped your hands together, you'd clap a lot. But, if I suddenly stopped handing you money, even though you were still clapping, you'd clap more and clap louder. You might even get closer to me to make sure I was noticing that you were clapping. You might even shout at me "Hey! I'm clapping like crazy over here, where's the money?". If I didn't respond at all, in any way, you'd stop. It wasn't working anymore. That last try -- that loud, frequent clapping is an extinction burst. If, however, during that extinction burst, I gave you another twenty dollar bill you'd be right back in it. It would take a lot longer to get you to stop clapping because you just learned that if you try hard enough, it will work.

When your dog learns that the behaviours that used to get him your attention don't work any more he's going to try harder and he's going to have an extinction burst. If you give him attention during that time you will have to work that much harder to get him turned around again. Telling him "no" or pushing him away is not the kind of attention he's after, but it's still attention. Completely ignoring him will work faster and better.

YOU HAVE THE POWER
As the human and as his owner you have control of all things that are wonderful in his life. This is the backbone of the NILIF program. You control all of the resources. Playing, attention, food, walks, going in and out of the door, going for a ride in the car, going to the dog park. Anything and everything that your dog wants comes from you. If he's been getting most of these things for free there is no real reason for him to respect your leadership or your ownership of these things. Again, a timid dog is going to be stressed by this situation, a pushy dog is going to be difficult to handle. Both of them would prefer to have you in charge.

To implement the NILIF program you simply have to have your dog earn his use of your resources. He's hungry? No problem, he simply has to sit before his bowl is put down. He wants to play fetch? Great! He has to "down" before you throw the ball. Want to go for a walk or a ride? He has to sit to get his lead snapped on and has to sit while the front door is opened. He has to sit and wait while the car door is opened and listen for the word (I use "OK") that means "get into the car". When you return he has to wait for the word that means "get out of the car" even if the door is wide open. Don't be too hard on him. He's already learned that he can make all of these decisions on his own. He has a strong history of being in control of when he gets these resources. Enforce the new rules, but keep in mind that he's only doing what he's been taught to do and he's going to need some time to get the hang of it all.

You're going to have to pay attention to things that you probably haven't noticed before. If you feed your dog from your plate do you just toss him a green bean? No more. He has to earn it. You don't have to use standard obedience commands, any kind of action will do. If your dog knows "shake" or "spin around" or "speak" use those commands. Does your dog sleep on your bed? Teach him that he has to wait for you to say "OK" to get on the bed and he has to get down when you say "off". Teach him to go to his bed, or other designated spot, on command. When he goes to his spot and lays down tell him "stay" and then release him with a treat reward. Having a particular spot where he stays is very helpful for when you have guests or otherwise need him out of the way for a while. It also teaches him that free run of the house is a resource that you control. There are probably many things that your dog sees as valuable resources that I haven't mentioned here.

The NILIF program should not be a long, drawn out process. All you need to do is enforce a simple command before allowing him access to what he wants. Dinner, for example, should be a two or three second encounter that consists of nothing more than saying "sit", then "good dog!", then putting the bowl down and walking away.

ATTENTION AND PLAY
Now that your dog is no longer calling the shots you will have to make an extra effort to provide him with attention and play time. Call him to you, have him "sit" and then lavish him with as much attention as you want. Have him go get his favourite toy and play as long as you both have the energy. The difference is that now you will be the one initiating the attention and beginning the play time. He's going to depend on you now, a lot more than before, to see that he gets what he needs. What he needs most is quality time with you. This would be a good time to enroll in a group obedience class. If his basic obedience is top notch, see about joining an agility class or fly ball team.

NILIF DOES *NOT* MEAN THAT YOU HAVE TO RESTRICT THE AMOUNT OF ATTENTION YOU GIVE TO YOUR DOG. The NILIF concept speaks to who initiates the attention (you!), not the amount of attention. Go ahead and call your dog to you 100 times a day for hugs and kisses!! You can demand his attention, he can no longer demand yours!

Within a day or two your dog will see you in a whole new light and will be eager to learn more. Use this time to teach new things, such as 'roll over' or learn the specific names of different toys.

If you have a shy dog, you'll see a more relaxed dog. There is no longer any reason to worry about much of anything. He now has complete faith in you as his protector and guide. If you have a pushy dog he'll be glad that the fight for leadership is over and his new role is that of devoted and adored pet.

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How to be your Dog’s Alpha all of the time
by Beth Bradley  -  Best Buddy Dog Training & Daycare Facility

Dogs communicate to each other through the use of body commands, not verbal commands. The mother dog will use her body to lead her pups and any vocalization that she gives is usually a low and guttural growl. Many of my clients, when confronted with a dog that is excited, whether it is good excitement (happy that you are home) or bad (trying to bite your neighbor) make the following mistakes:

#1: Using Multiple Commands: 

If your dog has not responded to your initial command, guaranteed he is not going to respond to the next five commands. Your dog has ‘tuned you out’ and any verbalization you continue to make will be continually ignored. Remember, the pack leader uses body language not verbalization to get what he wants. If your dog is jumping at the door or on someone at the door, don’t keep commanding him to sit, physically stop him from jumping with a collar and leash or use your body and block the door. 

The Alpha dog will stand tall in front of an object, facing a pack member, making direct eye contact and using his body language to tell the pack member to back off. As your dog’s Alpha you should stand tall in front of the door or the person, stare and don’t allow your dog to approach in that manner. Vocalization is not needed but if you want to say “No” using a low and guttural voice this should also stop your dog. If your dog is still not responding, and he may have the knowledge that he has ‘worn you down before’. Place your leash on your collar and correct. Do not praise for obedience or if your dog calms down at this point, that will make him going into that excited behavior again.

Also, you don’t need to use verbal praise all of the time. Dogs do not cheer when another responds to a body gesture. While some dogs do require verbal praise as encouragement when training, many dogs become too excited when praised and try to match their owner’s voice excitement with either barking or jumping. A simple pat or touch by you as handler is all that is needed most of the time. 

#2: Raising their Voices: 

When a pack leader reprimands a pup, it is a low guttural growl, not a high pitched bark. A high pitched sound shows excitement, so if you are yelling at your dog, all that you are really doing is exciting your dog. Now, you can use a high pitched voice for praise but remember we don’t want to overexcite your dog. Many dogs become stimulated too easily so if you are trying to instill calmness, do not use your voice for praise but your hands as reinforcement, by way of a simple pat or gentle touch.

#3: Responding to excitement or frenzy in your dog with #1 or #2 above:

If your dog is excited do not acknowledge it by yelling commands above the barking. Let me translate a typical situation that happens daily as your dog views it: You come home from work and your dog is barking and jumping on you. Your reaction is to tell him ok or praise him or yell a command to sit, loud enough so he can hear it above his barking: Dog translation: bark louder and get more excited.

Luckily for me, every day I have the opportunity to watch dogs interact with each other. And I have seen how dogs correct each other and how an Alpha dog reacts with other dogs when this happens. When a young pup is jumping on an Alpha dog, the Alpha dog stands tall sometimes turning his head from the puppy in the opposite direction. His head, ears and tail are raised high, the Alpha dog makes no eye contact and his hair down his back is hackled. 

If the puppy does not stop acting obnoxiously there is a quick, low guttural growl with a snap, sometimes making contact with his teeth. At this point the puppy usually walks away or hits the ground, rolling over and showing submission. The excitement has ended and each goes about their business. 

How should you respond to your dog jumping on you? Like an Alpha dog would. Stand tall with your eyes facing the ceiling; turn your back towards him if he is jumping towards your face. Make no eye contact and say nothing; if your dog continues and he will because his previous experience has taught him that you will give in, grab your leash and place it on the dog’s neck (slip it over his head like a noose) and correct. 

Say nothing, when your dog is calmly sitting, simply walk away from him and do not pet or praise. Remember, the Alpha dog will walk away and ago about his business. Keep the leash in your hands as you walk away so if he jumps on you as you turn your back to leave him, correct. This correction should be meaningful enough to make your dog lay down in submission.

Conclusion:

Being the Alpha or the dominant pack leader does not depend on size or strength, the pack leader is the strongest in his own head. The pack leader is calm and confident all of the time and rarely vocalizes; in order to be the pack leader you must imitate how a ‘canine’ pack leader reacts and interacts with his pack 100% of the time. The pack leader is not influenced by outside stimuli or by feelings or emotions of his pack members. The pack leader treats each pack member the same and does not take into account previous experiences of a new pack member. 

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